August 24 | Aleppo, Syria

I've stayed busy the last few weeks with my English classes and weekend trips. I visited a beautiful beach on the Mediterranean Sea near the mountain town of Kasab. A three hour bus ride is all it takes to reach the sea and escape the noise, dust, and heat of Aleppo.

I was invited by one of my students to spend a day hiking with her uncle and cousin in the mountains near Darkoush. We underestimated the length of the hike, but fortunately we were able to get water from local farmers. We were welcomed into the house with "Ahlan wa Sahlan," and as always in the Arab world, were asked to stay longer and relax with tea. Our hosts were sorry to see us leave so quickly, but we still had some distance cover. We came across a spring fed river that allowed for lush green vegetation contrasting greatly with the dry mountains. We found a patch of fig and pomegranate trees and proceeded to have one of the healthiest and most delicious snacks ever. Nothing can beat the taste of fresh fruit, especially when such an "exotic" fruit is free. My friends couldn't believe me when I said that one pomegranate costs more than $1 in the USA. In the evening we prepared a fish BBQ next to the river where the rest of the family had arrived by car. The fish was cooked in a salt pit with coals placed on top –a delicacy.

Last weekend I traveled with the owner of my school to Latakia using the ultra modern Aleppo-Latakia train service. The train was so nice, new, and clean that when I stepped aboard I felt that I had been transported to some far away land. The Sheraton Hotel and that train have to be the two nicest things in this country.  Syrians travel to Latakia to go swimming in the sea, and the first beach we visited was the filthiest beach I've ever seen. People have not learned here that if you want to keep something beautifully you must clean up after yourself. Nevertheless, there were a lot of people having a great time playing in the water, smoking hookah, drinking tea, and dancing to blaring Arabic music. These vacationers are proof that you don't need much to be happy and enjoy life. Even the hijab-covered women were playing ball, swimming in the water, smoking cigarettes, and laughing. My friend explained to me that this Latakia beach is like a haven where people from the super conservative cities like Aleppo can come and be more open and free. They even sell beer.

The next day we met up with a group of European couchsurfers and headed to a secluded beach one hour north of Latakia. The water was a beautiful color from the white rock bottom and the fact that the beach is off-the-beaten-track meant that there were fewer people and thankfully less litter on the beach. In the evening we headed to the mountain getaway Slonfeh, where younger Syrians go to party, eat, and enjoy the cool mountain air. The most exciting part of the day, however, was the three hour bus ride back to Aleppo. The partygoers on the bus still had too much energy and danced to blaring Arabic the entire way back to Aleppo with the driver acting as the DJ. Even hijab-covered women started dancing with the men which my friend tells me is totally taboo and unacceptable in the Syrian society. I guess they figured that what happens on the bus stays on the bus.  

August 3 | Aleppo, Syria

After traveling for five days on a bus, it was a relief to arrive in the great city of Aleppo. The city is just as spectacular, smelly, and busy as when I was here last October. I realized why I had been longing to come back when I stepped into a restaurant and had a delectable Arabic meal for $1. The food here is so rich and cheap and I'm now convinced that I should open a Arabic restaurant in the US. The hospitality here is so amazing that when I walk into a store everybody inside stops their business and welcomes me to Syria. No joke! This happens everywhere I go –in the buses and taxis, walking down the sidewalk, and in all the stores, restaurants, and internet cafes. The Syrians are so intent on improving their inaccurate reputation as bad people that they find it their duty to impress travelers with overwhelming kindness. Sure, they are nice to each other, but as an American I receive special status. Hey, I'm not complaining!

I have begun teaching conversational English classes. This is a new one for me and I find it very challenging. I am currently teaching two separate classes with about eight girls in each class. It is the first time that the students have ever spoken to a native English speaker, so I guess they are probably just as intimidated as I am. Before the classes began I had the false assumption that just because I could speak English I would have no problem teaching it. Thankfully, the lesson plans I have been using from the internet are working pretty well and now that I know more about the students I will be able to improve the dialogue in each class. My mother and her 27 years of experience as a teacher have come in handy as well.

For the first few days I stayed at either Jamal’s or Mustafa’s apartment. Jamal is the owner of the English school and Mustafa is a couchsurfing.com friend who I stayed with last year. I have now moved into to the extra room at the English school. I am very comfortable here with access to my own kitchen and bathroom. The institute is located in a well-kept, affluent area of Aleppo near the University. There are many nice shops, restaurants, and internet cafes nearby, and almost everybody in this district called "Foorkan" can speak some English. I just have to get used to the Syrian schedule of staying awake until 4:00 in the morning; businesses doesn't even get started until 11:00 AM.

Because I have been so busy with settling down, meeting new people, and making lesson plans for class, I haven't been able to formally start my Arabic lessons. In the next few days I will purchase a beginner's textbook and make a schedule with someone patient enough to teach me Arabic. I don't have any classes on Thursdays and Fridays and it will be nice to have a little free time.